NWC – third April – SW France
The South West of France is clearly a big, numerous area for wine making. Our presenter this week sought after to appear extra on the native grapes than the extra global types that frequently crop up.
Cajolle, Parlange & Illouz, 2021. You couldn’t want for a extra rustic get started. It is advisable to want for a extra relaxing one even though. This Jurancon Noir grape hasn’t ever been written about as having nice pedigree and I discovered {that a} tough remark to argue with. Very gentle within the glass it used to be bitter and fizzy with some pink end result, apple, wild strawberry, cherry however in the end inexperienced and under-ripe. There wasn’t common condemnation with some who like that kind of taste playing it, assume Loire or Jura reds. £20
Le Champ d’Orphee, Cotes du Tarn, 2019. A brand new grape to me, Fer Servadou, which is frequently shortened to Fer. First of all there used to be a whiff of one thing vegetal however that blew off to show somewhat blackcurrant and pencil shavings. Palate had extra blackcurrant and berry along some fruit shortcake. Indubitably extra interesting than the closing and significantly better period. £25
Irouleguy, Arretxea, 2020. Onto our first of a couple of tannat wines and frequently an ideal this is arduous paintings in its early life with uncompromising tannins. The darkness of the wine is straight away obvious and with reasonably a red hue. Ripe stewed end result, plume and prune turn into a lot more savoury within the glass with the ones dry tannins at the back and front however with a pleasant freshness in the course of the palate. Beautiful drinkable, dare I say a BBQ wine. £25
Madiran Vielles Vignes, Labranche Laffont, 2020. An even quantity of fascinating chat about micro oxygenation making improvements to the drinkability of historically impenetrable wines and one thing this is hired at this domaine. The nostril used to be somewhat porty, ripe end result, raisin, some vanilla. Fairly candy onto the palate with blueberry and Cassis however maintaining very good steadiness with a clean end. Very relaxing, very drinkable if relatively too polished for some trad Madiran fans? £20
Madiran, Chateau D’Aydie, 2001. Now not satisfied of the way blank a bottle this used to be, for sure some cheesiness at the nostril. Possibly only a contact oxidised however cleaner at the palate with some blackcurrant, prune and liquorice. The age had softened it great and there used to be nonetheless some fruit however simply felt like a underneath par bottle. Present retail worth £30
Madiran, Chateau Peyros, 1995. Truly brown within the glass at virtually 30 years of age now. Tomato leaf nostril, somewhat heat earth. Now not a lot fruit at the palate, some comfortable cherry and baking spices. Now not utterly knackered however over the hill to my style. Now not completely positive in the event that they nonetheless make this actual wine however I believe recently round £20.
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Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, Labranche Laffont, 2020. This is identical space as Madiran however the whites and historically candy wines alternatively the only we attempted used to be sec (dry) with virtually no residual sugar. Grapes are Gros Manseng & Petit Manseng. The nostril used to be intense, waxy lemons, lanolin, guava. Wonderful fruit depth and a wealthy mouthful. Pithy citrus and quince, some ginger at the end. An excellent wine this is one for wine fans to consider relatively than one thing for a cocktail party. £20
Preciouse, Jurancon Sec, Montesquiou, 2020. Once more Gros Manseng & Petit Manseng. Much less intense however equivalent nostril, extra savoury and smoky. The topical notes right here have been richer dried pineapple. It did endure somewhat from following the extra ripe, intense wine that got here prior to however nice period right here. In our midst used to be Leon who imported from this Domaine for a few years, his notes are a ways awesome to mine:
A faded, limpid gold color. Aromas of lemon, lime oil, apple pie and dried herbs and spices greet the nostril, with background notes of rainy stone, lanolin/wool, cardamom, honey and the faintest trace of outdated(er) oak including authentic complexity. As at all times with this cuvée, the palate lives as much as the nostril, with the whole lot melding in combination in best team spirit – biting, but on the similar time caressing. Rather much less intense than earlier vintages, even though most likely much more advanced, this one gives tangy baked apple, quince, lime/lemon and herby/highly spiced flavours, balanced by means of a marginally of nutty/oily richness or even a modicum of grape tannin, all wrapped round a core of saline minerality and mouth-watering acidity.
Now not that I may just emulate this however in my protection I’ve about 2 mins to jot down my word in a room stuffed with loud opinionated wine-lovers and lots of of those beautiful wines must be pondered for longer. Nice worth for cash from Leon’s web site at £15.50.
Ugo Sur le Fil, Jurancon Sec, Guirardel, 2016. Gros Manseng & Petit Manseng. Fairly heady aromas of blossom round a core of baked apple pie and honey. An oily tough palate that jogged my memory of Loire Chenin with a marginally of burnt orange. Prime alcohol degree even though because of having to ferment all that sugar to achieve a dry wine. This divided opinion, some other folks concept it used to be too herbal however I in point of fact didn’t get that. Then again at £38 it will be arduous to suggest this over the opposite whites!
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Renaissance, Rotier, 2017. Into the candy wines, at first from Gaillac and the uncommon Loin de L’Oeil grape. Smells like a wine with botrytis, tastes like a wine with botrytis. Missing acidity. Some would possibly like this taste however too candy and cloying for me. £18
Splendid de Thou, Clos Thou, 2018. A lot more find it irresistible. The general 3 wines are all Petit Manseng from Jurancon. Truly lifted aroma of tinned peaches. Flavours of apricot and sour orange. Just right acidity. £18
Grappe d’Or, Jurancon, Montesquiou, 2004. With age there used to be a extra outstanding burnt caramel right here however nonetheless stone fruit and different complexities I didn’t have lengthy sufficient to unpick. Extra fruit at the palate and amazingly brand new acidity nonetheless. I were given apricot, pineapple and crimson grapefruit. A word from a up to date antique from Leon:
The grapes for this wine are harvested deep into November, wherein time they have got begun to dry at the vine, concentrating the flavours, while maintaining all the bracing acidity which is the hallmark of Petit Manseng. The color is a sparkly, straw/yellow gold. The nostril has the whole lot – tangy lemon and lime oil, baked apples and apricots, with hints of fig, toffee, ginger and unique spices and herbs. And it virtually is going with out pronouncing that you’ll odor the everyday steely, stream-fresh Petit Manseng minerality. The palate hits you with a mouthful of wealthy apricot and peach flavours, with a carefully viscous texture and all means of tangy, brand new and preserved citrus and tree fruit flavours. On the similar time, you get a veritable wave of nervy acidity and steely minerality, adopted by means of a groovy spice and ginger hit on the finish. Not anything stands proud, and all of it comes in combination fantastically, in a wine that assists in keeping you coming again for extra.
It’s to be had from his web site at £20.
Les Jardins de Babylone, Didier Dagueneau, 2007. A unprecedented deal with to complete from an ideal winemaker of the Loire who additionally made this candy wine in Jurancon. The nostril used to be a litte richer than the Grappe d’Or, baked apple and vanilla. Wonderful acidity at the palate that just about jogged my memory of an ice wine. The tropical notes of teenybopper appear to be giving far more to peach, marmalade and a end of iced tea. Scrumptious and one I want I had had longer to consider. Now £100 for 50cl (!!)
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